002 The Insanity of Chinese Bureaucracy

One sluggish winter afternoon in early 2008, I had a momentary lapse of sanity. Many factors were to blame. There were the short winter days, meaning I entered Work before the sun had risen, and left Work after the sun went down. Utterly depressing. There were the endless spreadsheets that required mind-numbing attention to detail. There were the endless reports that were passed around internally from department to department like a pinball spinning aimlessly around in a pinball machine, pinging from one station to another, never resting, until it disappeared into the Black Hole of Approval. And there was me, a zombiefied drone in a cubicle, printing out reports like my job depended on it. All those factors resulted in my making a decision that changed my life: I decided to quit my job and run off to China.

Drastic? Yes. Melodramatic? Absolutely. Insane? I can’t argue with you there!

However, the fact remains. I did it. I ran off to China, but it took me another six months before I actually got on a plane and hopped across the Pacific. I didn’t realise it at the time, of course, but I was about to get the Full China Experience before I ever stepped on a plane.

All that bureaucracy was so I could study here.

Other people have talked about getting a full-ride scholarship in China. It sounds so easy, doesn’t it? Send in an application, get a full-ride scholarship, enjoy your year (or more) in China. That was what I thought. I thought that applying for that scholarship would be a similar process to all the scholarships I’d ever applied for for college. Boy, was I wrong. This application process was so complicated that there was an entire forum thread dedicated only to applying for this specific scholarship. And those posts get so long that they make a new thread every year.

When I applied for the scholarship in the Dark Ages, nobody knew anything. That forum thread was still a work-in-progress, a tiny candle, lighting the way through the labyrinthine horror of opaque Chinese bureaucracy. My scholarship application process was complicated by the fact that I was a Singapore citizen living in the US. So… where did I send my application to? The Chinese embassy in the US? Or the Chinese embassy in Singapore? Did it even matter? Nobody knew.

I called the Chinese consulate in San Francisco, and the following conversation ensued:

Me: Hi, I’m calling about the CSC Scholarship…
Consulate Flunky: There’s no such scholarship.
Me: …but I’m looking right at the websi-
Consulate Flunky: Lies and deceit! *hangs up*
Me: Hello!? Hello? @#$%@#%!@#%@#$

Any half-way sane person would have given up right then. I mean, the website hadn’t been updated since 2006! What on earth was I thinking? I wasn’t, clearly. Yet I still persevered, and called up the Singapore Consulate in San Francisco, who weren’t much help either. But come on, it wasn’t like the scholarship was being offered by the Singapore government. They did give me the link to the website of the Chinese Embassy in Singapore.

I tried the phone number they gave me, but nobody answered. There wasn’t even an answering machine. I was to learn much later that Chinese people apparently never use answering machines. Out of luck, I tried the website for the Chinese Embassy in Singapore, and hit pay dirt. I found a page with 15 or so phone numbers. After checking out timezone tables, I set up shop one evening at my desk, pulled up a notepad and a good pen, and started dialing down the list of numbers. Out of 15 numbers, I was surely going to get somebody, right? Right? Ah, how naive I was. Of the 15 numbers, 13 of them were never picked up, 1 was a fax machine, and the last the visa line.

The hours I spent trying to contact people regarding this scholarship would probably have been better spent doing so many other things, but the insanity was strong in me back then. One day, in utter desperation, I managed to place a call through to the CSC headquarters in Beijing. (Don’t bother asking for the phone number, it doesn’t work any more. I suspect they changed it after I got through…) After getting routed through five different people, I managed to talk to somebody who seemed to be somewhat high up in the CSC food chain. He was so high up, in fact, that he only had enough time to say one sentence to me: “Apply at the Chinese embassy in the country you are a citizen of.”

I had literally spent weeks of research for one dude to say one sentence.

No matter, I sent in two packets to two different departments, since I had no idea who I was supposed to send the application to. I got the scholarship in the end, so I suppose those weeks weren’t wasted. I came to find out once I’d gotten to China that the crazy application process was merely a preview of what I could expect in China. Everything is done like this in China. Everything.

This fact is being brought home to me once again, as I navigate the convoluted twists-and-turns of returning to China. Though I am going for work this time, and the process is a little different, the craziness is still the same; but that’s a story for another time.


7 thoughts on “002 The Insanity of Chinese Bureaucracy

  1. Ha ha ha, I also applied for the CSC scholarship. Twice. In 2006 and 2007. Got it in 2007…
    In Spain, apart from the usual crazy Chinese bureaucracy, it was recommended that you went to the Chinese consulate in Madrid in person, so the guy in charge of giving the scholarships would see you and remember you when choosing the winners. Because, no, it wasn’t about merits, I think they randomly chose the scholarship recipients. Or maybe they did a lottery. But yes, after going there (6 hours bus trip) I finally got it. At least I didn’t have to give the guy a hongbao!


    1. Holy crap, I’m so glad I didn’t need to fly out to Singapore just to get the scholarship. That would’ve been utterly nuts! Chinese bureaucracy is so insane, it really takes quite a while to get used to the craziness!

      I have so much respect for anybody who went through the application process twice! Once was more than enough for me!


  2. Interesting read – I am thinking of applying for a scholarship to study in Taiwan after I go there to study for a five week trial run starting at the end of this week. Already the application process is scarring me (again there is a whole forum thread dedicated to the topic) I’m hoping the bureaucracy won’t be as bad as mainland China but that is probably naive of me!


    1. It’s really just like bureaucracy anywhere, I think. I bet the paperwork to get into Australia for a study visa is equally onerous for non-Australians. I know the American version is just as annoying. With Taiwan, I bet they’d actually answer your phone calls!

      Since you’re going to Taiwan, are you learning traditional script then?


      1. Yes you are probably right – from what I have heard paperwork for Australian visas is a pain. You are also right with your bet about Taiwan – I have had to contact the Taiwanese embassy in Australia twice and they have been incredibly helpful and efficient both times (so I take that as a good sign!) I am not learning traditional script (I have already started learning simplified and my tutor in China – who I have lessons with via Skype – can’t teach traditional). I was originally going to go to mainland China to study but my Chinese fiance and his parents advised going to Taiwan- they think it is safer and easier and I think they are probably right. It is also easier because Australians can go there for up to 90 days at the moment without a visa so that’s one less headache.


        1. Well, I think in terms of bureaucracy and the like, Taiwan would be more cooperative, and like you said, the visa thing is a huge plus. Though to be perfectly honest, if you just do a one month tourist visa for China, the entire process is pretty painless (though annoying). In Taiwan, you’d be using and learning traditional script. I don’t think they teach simplified there.


          1. The schools I have researched say they teach both traditional and simplified (I think there is definitely a push towards traditional though) I guess I will see when I get there 🙂


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s